A Guide to Tailoring

first_imgTailoring can be a tricky thing so to help our gents out we got the sartorial sizzle from Alex Wilcox of Lord Willy’s.Our thoughts on the subject: Our mantra is simple: Buy Less, Buy Quality, Support Craftsmanship! Why have piles of cheap, ill-fitting items when you can have a tight collection of handsome, quality, well-made pieces you can be proud of?  There ya go…Tips from a tailor:We popped around to one of our favorite tailors, Alex Wilcox of Lord Willy’s in New York City to ask him for some essential tips for dressing well. Alex and his wife Betty are British expats who have been whipping New York men into sartorial shape for years now.1. A good shirt will save a bad suit, any day of the week. Your entire appearance comes from the neck down. A well fitted, clean, precise collar will set the tone and draw less attention to what follows. To the same point, a great suit with a bad shirt is going to do you no favors.2. What color tie should I wear with this? When in doubt, go with a solid navy tie. It will “ground” your other choices and always look sophisticated. It’s the “Swiss Army Knife” of the sartorial world. The only color it doesn’t go with is black.3. I need to buy a suit. It will have to work for work, weddings, funerals, and possible court cases. What should I get? A solid navy or a solid charcoal suit will work for all of the above. Grey and navy both allow other colors to breathe, so it’s up to you how to accessorize. A black suit (which seems to be most people’s first suit) is very limiting. It’s too harsh and, like a picture, it simply frames your other choices and should only be worn for black tie events or by people who know how to wear it.4. Choose pieces that you wear, not pieces that wear you. If your personality is confident and playful, by all means, let your outfit show it. If you are the shy, retiring type, don’t go looking for the clothes to change you. Embrace your own persona and shine from within. There’s nothing wrong with sophisticated — it’s always fashionable.5. Don’t spend more than 20 minutes getting dressed in the morning. Just go with the flow. If you botch it up, don’t worry, it’s just called “character building.”Etiquette:Don’t ever buy something because it is expensive. Buy it because you like it. Editors’ Recommendations The Best Backpacking Chairs for Your Next Adventure Tuxedo Tips: Your Guide to Nailing Black-Tie Attire Do take care of your clothes. Clothes don’t fare well on the floor, that’s what hangers are for. How to Choose the Right Dress Shirt last_img read more

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Nova Scotia government imposes wage package on 75000 civil servants

Mark Furey leaves a media scrum in Halifax on Monday, August 31, 2015. Nova Scotia’s labour relations minister has scheduled an announcement for later today in which he is expected to proclaim a bill imposing a wage package on civil servants. Government sources who requested anonymity have confirmed Mark Furey will proclaim Bill 148, which was passed by the Liberal government in December 2015 and would impose a four-year wage package on civil servants. THE CANADIAN PRESS/Andrew Vaughan Nova Scotia government imposes wage package on 75,000 civil servants by Keith Doucette, The Canadian Press Posted Aug 22, 2017 5:48 am MDT Last Updated Aug 22, 2017 at 1:40 pm MDT AddThis Sharing ButtonsShare to TwitterTwitterShare to FacebookFacebookShare to RedditRedditShare to 電子郵件Email HALIFAX – Nova Scotia’s Liberal government finally moved on a contentious piece of labour legislation Tuesday, effectively imposing a wage package on the province’s 75,000 public sector employees and drawing a fiery response from the union representing the majority of them.Premier Stephen McNeil said the proclamation of the Public Services Sustainability Act was being done in the “best interests of Nova Scotians,” but the union president called that insulting.“It’s the arrogance of this government that just really cooks my goose,” said Jason MacLean, president of the Nova Scotia Government and General Employees Union (NSGEU).The act was passed in December 2015 to ensure third party arbitrators could not bind the government to wage settlements. At the time, McNeil promised it would not be brought into force until it was needed.The government’s move came two weeks after the Nova Scotia Government and General Employees Union (NSGEU) — the province’s largest — filed for arbitration on behalf of nearly 8,000 civil servants after last-ditch conciliation talks broke down. Those workers included corrections, child welfare and court employees.The new act would also cover thousands of other workers, including those in health care who are yet to reach new deals with the province.“I’ve made it very clear that an unelected, unaccountable arbitrator will not determine the taxpayers’ ability to pay,” McNeil told reporters.The act doesn’t end arbitration but does limit arbitrators from making awards that exceed the wage guidelines.It sets a wage pattern of three per cent over four years that will allow increases of one per cent in the third year of the contract, followed by 1.5 per cent in the fourth year and 0.5 per cent on the final day of the package.A retirement allowance is also frozen retroactive to April 1, 2015. The so-called public service award is a lump sum payment for retiring workers with at least 10 years of service.New employees will no longer be eligible for the payment under the government’s change.MacLean lashed out at the government’s move, even though he said he wasn’t surprised by it.“You have Stephen McNeil who I believe is a snake, and then you have (labour relations minister) Mark Furey who is basically the dishonourable middle man. These guys are taking control of where labour goes,” MacLean said in an interview.MacLean pointed out his union members are also taxpayers who will now have less money to spend as the province struggles with a sputtering economy.“And now he (McNeil) took away their public service award which is adding insult to injury because it is something that was freely and collectively bargained,” he said.McNeil said the act will be referred to the Nova Scotia Court of Appeal under the Constitutional Questions Act to obtain an opinion.He said the government is confident the law will stand up to constitutional scrutiny.“We believe the constitution says that everyone is entitled to open and free collective bargaining. We believe we’ve gone that process. We have been at the table many times with our (bargaining) units,” he said.MacLean said the union would wait to see how the Nova Scotia court rules, adding that the union also stands ready to mount a Charter of Rights challenge before the Supreme Court of Canada.“The NSGEU will not rest and they will make this government miserable,” said MacLean.The act exempts groups that already have agreements, including judges, doctors, physician residents, teachers, and about 15,000 management and non-union positions.McNeil was asked whether he believed his party’s re-election May 30 was an endorsement of his approach to the labour file.“This has been an endorsement on the direction of our government. We also know that Nova Scotians wanted our government to live within its means and they believe the approach that we were doing was a positive one.”Progressive Conservative Leader Jamie Baillie said the government’s move is part of “an expensive game.”“We are now condemned to years of legal costs,” Baillie said. “Millions of dollars that’s not going to go to doctors or health care because the government couldn’t get the job done in the normal way and has resorted to this kind of gamesmanship.”NDP critic Susan Leblanc said the government’s court referral signals a lack of confidence in legislation that she said will further sour labour relations in the province.“It basically says we don’t want to go any further in these negotiations, this is what we want, this is what’s going to happen, we’re allowed to do this, we are going to push it through. It’s a bullying tactic.”Earlier this year the government drew the ire of more than 9,300 public school teachers when it ended a 16-month contract dispute by passing legislation that imposed a contract settlement.The bill also gave teachers a three per cent wage increase over four years and froze their long service award retroactive to July 2015.It came after teachers had previously rejected three tentative agreements. read more

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Duchess of Sussex hails horses meditative qualities as she embraces Queens favourite

“Has anyone got any carrots?” joked Harry, noticing that Molly was shaking.  “She’s a bit nervous, this one.”“Well, we all get a little camera shy, I understand,” said the Duchess.The couple were there to learn more about the country’s developing programme of equine therapy for children with special needs, funded by King Mohamed.Arriving at the Royal Equestrian Club Dar Essalam, the country’s main equestrian venue, they were introduced to Louis Broski, the founder of the Centre Social Kariat which works with mentally and physically disabled young people. Inside they walked around the stations and chatted to the young cooks, aged between nine and 18, stopping to try mince and onion pastries and Harira – a spicy chickpea soup.Chef Moha handed them each a decorated ceramic bowl to try and they each took a sip. “C’est delicieux,” said Meghan in French.“What’s in it?” asked Harry, before joking, “It’s a secret recipe!” One child said spoke in Arabic to the chef, who turned to the Duke and said: “He finds you a very good person.”“He is a good person,” smiled the Duchess, putting a hand on her husband’s arm. The children are cared for by three different charities, including Hadaf, an organisation which employs young people with Downs Syndrome, L’Association Musulmane de Bienfaisance and the Lalla Meriem Centre, founded by King Mohammed VI’s sister.Also on the menu were Moroccan pancakes with honey and Almond butter, a recipe by Cherine Mallah, taken from the Grenfell cookbook which the Duchess helped to produce.The dish features in Together: Our Community Cookbook, which became a bestseller after Meghan launched it on a visit  the Al Manaar cultural centre, which is at the heart of the community devastated by the Grenfell Tower fire. Mr Broski, who has trained horses for more than 30 years, is one of the country’s leading figures in equine therapy.  “It was a challenge,” he told them.  “I started with one child, but now 16 years later we have 100 children.  My aim is for all disabled children to be fully integrated into Moroccan society.”“That is just so important, and this is just a gorgeous space you have here,” the Duchess told him.The Royal couple met Ekram, 20, who has Down Syndrome, and began riding at the club a month ago.   Speaking through a translator, she told them “I love the connection with the horses, it already makes me feel relaxed and more confident. And I like being outside, with nature.” “Big bite!” laughed Meghan. “Bit late now!” replied her husband. The Duchess developed the Together cookbook idea over a series of earlier private visits where she cooked with the women of the Hubb Community Kitchen there.Sales of the book have allowed them to refurbish the facilities and expand their work in providing freshly prepared food for those displaced by the tragedy as well as other community groups. Prince Harry playfully strokes a horse Credit:Fadel Senna/AFP Handed a pancake covered in Amlou – a blend of almond butter, argan oil and honey, the Duke took a huge mouthful. One rider, 24-year-old Driss, told them how his youth had involved violence and drugs, and sakd the equine therapy has helped him regain confidence and made him feel “calmer”.  Driss now has a job with the Centre Social Kariat and helps disadvantaged and disabled children develop their skills and learn how to ride. The Duke, who grew up riding and still plays polo, told him:  “It’s amazing what you can do here.  For someone like you, who must have lost so much trust in all sorts of people around you growing up, you’ve been able to put your trust in horses. The trust between us and horses, it’s a very special thing. I’m missing my old horses.” Royal couple vow to return to MoroccoThe Duke and Duchess of Sussex vowed to return to Morocco with their baby after sampling a selection of classic national dishes. Harry and Meghan took up the offer of a meal for “the whole family” from top chef Moha Fedal, who hosts the North African nation’s version of Masterchef.He told the couple: “I hope to cook for you next time,” as they joined him for a cookery demonstration with underprivileged children in the capital Rabat.The Duchess replied: “The whole family next time.” The chef said: “You come with your baby to Marrakech next time.”“We would love to,” said Meghan. “Come with your baby and I will cook for all three,” he told Harry as he joined them.The Duke replied: “We will cook for you!” He is already a fan of the chef’s work, having visited his famous Dar Moha restaurant on a private visit to Marrakech just before the royal wedding.Although Moha would not be drawn on the secret trip, he disclosed: “He [Harry] loves pastilla – the sweet and savoury – and kefta.”During their visit to the colourful Villa Des Ambassadeurs, a privately owned guest house set up with temporary cooking stations, the royal couple sampled an array of fragrant and spicy dishes, including the pigeon pastilla which the Duchess  declared “delicious”. The Duke and Duchess of Sussex arrive at the Moroccan Royal Federation of Equestrian Sports in Rabat The Duke and Duchess of Sussex sample the local cuisineCredit:Stephen Lock/i-Images The Duke and Duchess of Sussex arrive at the Moroccan Royal Federation of Equestrian Sports in RabatCredit:PA/Yui Mok The Duke and Duchess of Sussex meet with workers during a visit to the Moroccan Royal Federation of Equestrian Sports in Rabat in MoroccoCredit:Kirsty Wigglesworth/AP The Duchess of Sussex takes a bite, watched on by her husbandCredit:Stephen Lock/i-Images The couple then watched a grooming session with three Shetland ponies – Caramel, Xina and Molly, with some of the children who have benefitted from the Equine Assisted Therapy [EAT or Equi-therapy] programme, in one of the club’s outdoor manages.  “I’m happy!” said the chef. They arrived at the ornately decorated residence to a traditional welcome of dates and milk, which both royals sampled. The Duke and Duchess of Sussex sample the local cuisine Meghan told her:  “Wow, you’re very impressive.  What an accomplished lady.  I imagine it’s so therapeutic as well as meditative.”Harry and Meghan also watched a riding demonstration in another outdoor manege, with three autistic children riding ponies, while one of the equine therapists explained how they start the children with grooming ponies before gradually building them up to ride.  “It’s a wonderful, holistic approach,” said Duchess.Asking staff where they all travel from each day to work, Meghan said:  “I imagine no matter where you all come from, it’s so worth it.  “It’s amazing what you all do here. Really impressive.”The Duke added: “You’ve got the space, the horses, and the king’s support.  Keep up the amazing work.  It would be wonderful to see more of this across Morocco.” The couple also met with young people from disadvantaged backgrounds who have benefitted from the programmes at the centre, where the Duchess reverted to French again, wishing them “Bonne journee”.Horse riding for children with special needs has been shown to improve children’s communication skills, boost their confidence and help them build relationships.  The Princess Royal is president of the Riding for the Disabled Association in the UK.Later today, the Duke and Duchess will attend a cookery session which will include a recipe for pancakes from her Together cookbook, and a trip to a market inside a picturesque walled garden. Prince Harry playfully strokes a horse  The Duchess of Sussex takes a bite, watched on by her husband She has already won over the corgis. The Duchess of Sussex has now made a start on the Queen’s other love: horses.During their royal visit to Morocco, the Duchess stroked the noses of horses in stables of the Royal Foundation for Equestrian Sports, encouraged by her husband who has grown up alongside the animals.The Duke, who looked right at home making a fuss of the animals, led the way, with his wife reaching out to touch them tentatively afterwards.Although she has attended the polo with her husband, it is the first time the Duchess has embraced the horse-loving side of the Royal Family for her public engagements since her wedding.The visit, to the Moroccan Royal Federation of Equestrian Sports in Rabat, saw her admit to feeling “camera shy”, while Prince Harry told his hosts he was missing his old horses. The Duke and Duchess of Sussex meet with workers during a visit to the Moroccan Royal Federation of Equestrian Sports in Rabat in Morocco read more

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